I remember sitting in front of our log burner last February, researching places to visit on our possible family world journey.  At the time it was just a dream, a hope.  I recall trawling the web, reading about New Zealand, Thailand, Malawi and Costa Rica and the phrase that kept reappearing for Costa Rica was “Pura Vida”.  My curiosity led me to a translation – “Pure Life”.

“Great”, I thought.  “That’s exactly what us Evans’ need.  Lets go!”

But I had no idea, no clue, of what Pura Vida means.  It’s not “pure life”.  It’s “Pura Vida”.  And after 3 weeks in Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula,  about as far south as you can go before the jungle keeps you out, I think I’m starting to understand.  To people who live here, particularly the Ticos, it is profound.  The law of the land.

It’s a greeting, a welcome, an affirmative, a high five, an email sign off, a “yeah”, a breath, a wave, a meal, a beach, an experience, a lifestyle… the list goes on.

It’s a way of living here.  The way things are and, I think, the way things are supposed to be.  Its joyous.  No-nonsense, practical and smiling.

Pura vida.

Those of you who know me well will appreciate the fact that I like to get as much pleasure out of life as possible.  That’s what its about, right?  I like being happy.  So I was delighted to discover that Costa Rica is officially at the top of the “happy countries leaderboard”.

As a surfer and tourist it is obvious why; the never ending empty beaches with perfect A-frame waves, promising my first real barrel (the magical “green room”, when you are surfing a wave and are enclosed inside it and then ride out – I’ve still not managed it yet!) pounding the shore all day, whatever the tide or the weather.  Or the impossible mountains and jungle or the cartoon wildlife that you come across when you are least expecting it.  Or the food, or the friendliness of the people or the sunshine and the fact I haven’t worn shoes for 3 weeks and very rarely a shirt.  Or the view from our bedroom window (see above).

But for the people who live here?  For the people who live on the road behind the beach at Dominicalito, where we drive through to swim in the pool by the waterfall?  The people who live in families of 6 or more in corrugated huts smaller than my shed? The people who carry bags loaded full of coconuts along the roadside for miles?  The people who in our eyes are truly poor?  They are the ones who seem to really understand Pura Vida.  For them its far more than a slogan selling a dream.

For them its not just a perfect wave or breathtaking sunset, although I think they are a part of it.  It seems a lot deeper than that.  I think it is far more raw.  Like the heart-stopping thunder and lightening that captivate the rainforest every few days.  Maybe it’s in their blood?  Maybe in their food?  Perhaps part of it is their beliefs, their spirituality?  Maybe its about god, about nature, about love of others?  Maybe its about understanding themselves deeply , expecting less?  I don’t know and I’ll be surprised if I can find out in 8 weeks, especially with my terrible grasp of Spanish.  But whatever it is, I love it.

I’m so glad we decided to spend 2 months here.  We are beginning to breathe more deeply, slow down, spend time eating together, see things more clearly.  Living.

Plus I’ve got another 5 weeks to get my barrel!

Pura vida

James